2012-03-11 Stitching Drama

So, yesterday afternoon we were having some quiet time on Amanzi when we heard a dinghy coming by and yelling “is there a doctor on board?” Another cruiser’s wife had slipped an gashed her knee open. Fortunately, I have a suture kit on board, so, after the acquisition of some Lidocaine (local anesthetic) I headed over to their boat to effect a much needed repair:) Someone, long ago, coined the term that a definition of cruising was fixing boats in exotic places. I didn’t expect the definition to include fixing people in exotic places.

On their boat, Moya, I met Clair and Francis. They are both ex South African and Francis grew up in Port Elizabeth, a city in which I grew up in! Small world, huh?? But, even better is that Clare’s father attended the same school that my dad attended in Cape Town, Bishop’s Preparatory School for boys!!!! The world just keeps getting smaller :)

Anyway, after anesthetizing the area, I cleaned the wound and inserted a few stitches (sutures), closing the nasty gash. She had been walking in the shallows and stepped into a large hole, falling forward with her knee landing on the sharp edges of a conch shell. Just shows how easily accidents happen.

After that headed back to Amanzi and then went to the beach for sundowners and pot luck with the other cruisers.

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2012-03-10 Big Majors spot to Warderick Wells

Yesterday we were still at anchor at Big Majors Spot when a large motor yacht came powering in and anchored behind us. We noticed her name – Pirate. She had also been here on our first visit to Big Majors a few weeks ago. The beach opposite us has been unofficially named Pirate’s beach as the couple on Pirate had apparently done a lot to clean the beach and place new furniture there after Hurricane Irene!

As I started lifting my anchor and we moved off I noticed Pirate lifting her anchor and moving into the spot we had just vacated :) It was a good spot:)

So we headed round to Staniel Cay for some fuel and liquid supplies and then headed towards Warderick Wells. It was a lovely trip north – windy and swelly but from behind us so we weren’t too bothered. Estelle spent the whole 3 hours on the foredeck enjoying the sun and view.

Heading towards Warderick Wells we weren’t too hopeful of getting a mooring ball – usually you have to radio in the day before and get your name on the waiting list. Fortune smiled on us and we got a ball immediately :) Apparently all the boats had left that morning, like us, taking advantage of the fair traveling weather.

We picked up mooring ball #11, had a leisurely lunch and then dinghied to Park HQ to register, pay for the ball and buy some internet time.

Enjoyed another meal of delicious Mahi Mahi and then repaired to bed!!

This morning we were out early and hiked up to the blow holes and Boo Boo Hill. We got to the blow holes just at high tide and enjoyed the noise of the surf blowing through them but there was little spray as the swell had died down. Then continued to Boo Boo hill, found the sign we had left on our last visit and stacked it on the pile again.

On the beach again we met a few other couples who had come in today – a couple from the UK as well as a SA couple based in Florida.

Soon we’ll be off to the beach again for “pot luck” sundowners with all the other boaters who have arrived today filling up this mooring field.

Warderick Wells
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Warderick Wells
Whale skeleton - Warderick Wells
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Whale skeleton - Warderick Wells
Warderick Wells
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Warderick Wells
Warderick Wells
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Warderick Wells
The anchorage
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The anchorage
"Powerful Beach" - Warderick Wells
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"Powerful Beach" - Warderick Wells
View from park HQ
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View from park HQ
Another view from Park HQ
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Another view from Park HQ
Playing on the musical stones on way to Boo Boo Hill
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Playing on the musical stones on way to Boo Boo Hill
Gotta cross Banshee Creek to Boo Boo Hill
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Gotta cross Banshee Creek to Boo Boo Hill
Wading through Banshee Creek
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Wading through Banshee Creek
Exuma Sound - view from Boo Boo Hill Blow Holes
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Exuma Sound - view from Boo Boo Hill Blow Holes
The anhorage
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The anhorage
Brilliant colours
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Brilliant colours
Our name board on Boo Boo Hill
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Our name board on Boo Boo Hill
Name board amongst all the others
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Name board amongst all the others
I had a visitor on Boo Boo Hill
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I had a visitor on Boo Boo Hill
Estelle and Alastair on Boo Boo Hill
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Estelle and Alastair on Boo Boo Hill
More views from top of Boo Boo hill
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More views from top of Boo Boo hill
Cute!
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Cute!
Swimming off back of boat - note rope securing me frm STRONG current!!!
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Swimming off back of boat - note rope securing me frm STRONG current!!!
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2012-03-08 Grotto visit abandoned!!

Today we decided to try for a visit to Thunderball Grotto. So we all suited up in our best finery – neoprene wetsuits – and set off. The wind was still very strong but we decided to try anyway.

All was well on the western side of Big Majors but as we rounded the headland we were hit full force by the wind and waves. We plodded on a small distance but then turned back – defeated by the weather again :)

So, the swimming pigs were fed the bread we had taken along for the fish and they loved it. At the end of “piggy beach” we stopped to do a bit of snorkelling on a coral reef. I threw out Amadink’s anchor and Estelle set off. As luck would have it, one of the pigs decided to join her in the water!!! So we beat a hasty retreat a bit further up where the pigs couldn’t get to us.

Then we enjoyed a leisurely few hours exploring the various coral reefs where we saw many small fish and a huge starfish – we are convinced it was the same one we had seen when we were here a few weeks ago with Leanne and the boys.

Also saw a large stingray swimming past.

Then it was back to Amanzi for hot showers and hot drinks. After a few hours in the water we were all a bit chilled and a really hot luxurious shower was just what the doctor ordered :)

Now it’s time to BBQ the steak.

Tomorrow we will hopefully head further north to Warderick Wells as we have a very short weather window for moving.

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2012-02-25 to 03-07 Lots of stuff…..

Have not had decent reliable internet for some time now so this will be a long blog. I will publish this and then upload photos so keep a lookout for the photos – hopefully at the same time but “this is the Bahamas, mon! Who knows…”

2012-02-25 New arrivals!!

So today we decided to move to town and do some shopping and then anchor near sand Dollar Beach and organise a water taxi to take us into George Town later to collect Estelle and Alastair. We upanchored and on our way Mary espied two mooring balls vacant near Volleyball Beach (Chat ‘n’ Chill). At this time we were passing Elvis in his water taxi. He also happens to be the harbour master so Mary radioed him to ask if a ball was actually available. One was. So we about turned headed into Gaviota Bay and picked up the mooring ball – without wrecking and losing a boat hook. While there we organised a pump out – good grief, it’s amazing how quickly 2 people can fill a 40 gal tank!!! We then dinghied the 1.25 mile into George Town and bought some essential supplies (beer mainly, oh and a few groceries) We were so loaded that I couldn’t get the dinghy to plane on the way back to Amanzi, so it was a slow trip back!

Later, Elvis picked us up in his water taxi and ferried us to George Town government dock. There we proceeded to had a beer – Elvis had a supply in a cooler on his water taxi – and waited for the new arrivals. Estelle and Alastair duly arrived looking quite frazzled after their long trip from Scotland and were happy to get back to Amanzi via Elvis’ water taxi again.

Collapsed into bed after a light dinner and slept soundly

2012-02-26 Pig Roast at Chat ‘n’ Chill

Took ourselves off to Volleyball Beach and showed Alastair and Estelle around. Then we had a great pork roast at the Chat ‘n’ Chill for lunch. Sadly, though, the crackling was very soggy and not crackly at all but the rest was great. This was the first time we had rice and peas which is a traditional Bahamian dish which we have avoided till now as we envisaged white rice and green peas but this was spicy rice with black peas and tasted really good. Spent the  afternoon lazing around.

2012-02-27 Anchors dragging –  Pet Parade and Official Regatta Opening

Last night was an extremely bumpy night as the wind piped up to around 20-25 knots. Earlier yesterday we watched as a sailboat tried to squeeze into a small area in front of a motor yacht (MY) and behind the first line of mooring balls. It was very entertaining as he tried 4 times to set his anchor, It was a case of down anchor, up anchor, reverse a full 360 degrees, reposition, drop anchor, try to set it, it’s too close to the motor yacht, up anchor and try again – FOUR times!! Makes you think!

Anyway, Mary was awake due to the wind around midnight and noticed said sailboat moving backwards in the dark!!! Looked to be reversing again. Then the shouting started. Mary woke me up to tell me the yacht was dragging its anchor. Sure enough it was almost colliding with the motor yacht!!! We had grandstand seats for this but they managed to extricate themselves and anchored behind the motor yacht. This morning the motor yacht moved elsewhere and soon after the yacht moved in the same direction. Hopefully they didn’t go and anchor in front of the MY again!!!!

After lunch we went to the “pet parade” put on by the cruisers with their pets and then stayed for the official opening which was really excellent entertainment put on by various very talented cruisers

Quite an interesting experience trying to find Amanzi in the dark with a multitude of other boats around all displaying only a single anchor light. We knew the rough direction and it was quite close so didn’t really have any trouble. Some boats were anchored more than a mile away so I guess they had a very wet dinghy ride back to their boats!

2012-02-28 George Town

Today I completed some small projects – including setting up my new iPad after the last one died. We then got a pump out (again!!!) and then took a water taxi into town across the harbour. It was pretty windy and there was quite a chop so we decided to forego Amadink and use the water taxi instead. In town we got some laundry done and then went to Club Peace and Plenty for lunch but we were too late so headed across the road for a lovely light meal at the Driftwood Café.

More shopping – fins for Estelle and Alastair – and then some supplies including a case of Kalik – the local beer which I find very tasty and enjoyable. Then it was a walk back to the water taxi carrying all the supplies which included 2 cases of soft drinks cans. Waited arounf chatting to some other cruisers who had flown back home for 3 weeks and were returning to their boat. They actually have a young (30s) crew member who actually sails their boat back to the USa while they fly in and out.

Now we are waiting for the next weather window so start our return journey to Fernandina Beach. Looks like sometime from Thursday through Sunday and then some big winds are predicted. We’ll see. We’re not sure :)

2012-02-29 Weather window soon

Today we dropped the mooring ball and headed to our favourite anchorage just west of Goat Cay. This we did in preparation for an early start on our journey northbound starting tomorrow. There is a small weather window tomorrow and then reasonable weather till Sunday after which the weather is going to be slamming us with 25-30 knot winds gusting to 35+ So we are heading towards Big Majors Spot at Staniel Cay where we should have good protection from the predicted east winds.

In the Goat Cay anchorage we found it quite rolly although we were protected from the wind. We noticed that is was worst at high tide when the north easterly swell rolled in over the various shoals from the Exuma Sound. It settled down and we actually had a good night’s sleep.

2012-03-01 Heading North to Little Farmer’s Cay —–  MAHI MAHI

We awoke at sparrows to check out the weather report. All seemed good for a very early start so that we would enter the cut at Little Farmers Cay just before high tide. After our last experience we didn’t want to enter the cut on a falling tide with the water rushing out against the wind causing huge standing waves.

We were having a good trip with 10-15 knot wind out of the south east and the swell also out of the south east (onto our starboard [right hand side] quarter). About half way there, Mary was getting some drinks when she noticed the tip of the fishing rod suddenly bend over followed by the unmistakable zzzzzzz of the ratchet.

“FISH” she  shouted up to me on the flybridge as she scrambled up. I rushed down, fitted my fishing buckle and started playing the fish and gradually reeling it in. Great excitement as I eventually brought it alongside and Estelle gaffed it and we hauled it on board.

There was no time to get the alcohol to pour into its gills so I got a rope line around its tail and hung it over the side of the boat (not in the water!!! Didn’t want to share it with the sharks :) ) Unfortunately the line was a bit short and I didn’t cleat it properly and suddenly said Mahi Mahi was swimming away to freedom :( Fortunately I hadn’t removed the hook so I brought it in again and this time secured it properly!!!!

This was a much larger Mahi Mahi than the one I caught on the way down :)

Arrived in Little Farmers just before the tide turned and picked up a mooring ball and proceeded to fillet the fish. Mmmm, lots of fillets in the freezer now :)

We then headed into town to pay for the mooring ball and had a drink at the Ocean Cabin Bar and Restaurant where we had an interesting conversation with Terry, the owner! He is very well travelled, educated and read!!!

Back at Amanzi we BBQ’d a large fillet of Mahi Mahi and enjoyed a sumptuous meal. After that it was time to turn in for the night.

2012-03-02 Little Farmers Cay to Big Majors Spot via Little Guana Cay

Had a long lie, caught up on the weather and eventually set off around mid morning. The wind was a bit stronger and there was a considerable swell but, once again from behind, so we had a good trip to Little Guana Cay where we stopped to go ashore and have a look at the iguanas. These were quite brave and I had one come up to within 30cm of my foot. Quite amazing little creatures!!!

After lunch we continued our journey to Big Majors Spot and tucked ourselves in nice and close to the beach so that we will be well protected from the big winds which are due on Monday and will last for the week.

Now it’s time to see if we will see the green flash as the sun sets but I am doubtful as there is some land in the way. More later…

Sundowners in the cockpit as we watched the sun go down. There were some small cays in the way the setting sun so we weren’t sure if we would see the green flash. Both Mary and I did see the flash just as the sun had dipped below the horizon:) That’s twice now that we’ve seen it!!! And here I had always been the all time sceptic :)

2012-03-03 Swimming pigs and Staniel Cay – Provisions

This morning we dinghied to “piggy beach” (as we call it) to see the swimming pigs. They weren’t much interested in the scraps of food we brought them but were, once again, fascinating to watch. There was also a litter (?) of about 12 piglets on the beach!! Makes me wonder what has happened to previous litters – dinner for someone??? :) Also large numbers of smallish fish around – I guess they have learnt that there is always food available if the pigs don’t get it first!

After that we continued around the headland towards Staniel Cay and were slammed by the wind and waves. Fortunately we had taken the precaution of wearing swimming trunks for the trip!! We seemed to be the only mad people in a small dinghy heading to Staniel Cay Yacht Club! Anyway, we showed Estelle and Alastair around and picked up some supplies from the pink and blue stores as well as at Isles General Store. The stores were quite well supplied so I guess the mail boat had been in recently. Nice tomatoes were not available sadly. And the grapes at $4 per pound were a bit expensive!

Headed back to the yacht club for lunch and some internet time – mainly for the weather. Unfortunately I didn’t place my blog onto the memory stick so couldn’t upload it :)

Heading back to Amanzi we didn’t get as wet although the trip was a lot bouncier as the wind had piped up but the swell was on our stern.

WEATHER UPDATE – we are still waiting for the front to arrive after which we are expecting winds of 25-30 knots – gusting to 35. At the moment we are doing something we would never have dreamed of doing in our previous sailing life!!!!! And that’s being anchored on a lee shore!!!! This screams at me as being contrary to everything I have learnt and practised!! But there is little option as the wind is expected to clock around from SE to S to SW (current position) to W. fortunately the wind is expected to diminish a bit as it moves through these directions. Tonight at about 10pm the wind will swing to the N and then NE/E and then we’ll be correctly aligned in the lee of the shore. So we wait in anticipation – or is that trepidation???

2012-03-04 Waiting for wind shift

The wind has been blowing southerly and we spent the whole day waiting for it to clock around. We knew it was going to clock SW -W -  NW – N – NE. As we were quite close to the beach – we had really tucked ourselves in close in preparation for the N/NE/E – we did not want to be away from the boat when we swung around. Had to make sure that we didn’t end up on the beach or that the anchor didn’t drag as we swung around!!! As I said, we waited the whole day!!! And we slowly angled round as far as W/SW. Then at about 9pm the wind hit and we rapidly swung around W – NW – N – N/NE. The actual onset of the change was sudden and dramatic!!

Anyway, there were no problems and we swung around safely and my Manson Supreme anchor held perfectly – gotta love that anchor and chain :)

2012-03-05 Miserable day – Boat Projects – Canasta

Today dawned cold and windy and overcast. So it was a day for some boat projects and then an enjoyable afternoon playing Canasta. The boys vs the girls. Sadly, the boys were not up to the task and were trounced by the girls. That evening it was BBQ’d Mahi Mahi for dinner again – yummy and scrumptious!

The early part of the night was relatively calm but the wind and gusts started coming through at about 2am but, due to our proximity to the island, the sea was quite calm :)

2012-03-07 Boat projects completed – “Pirate Beach”

This morning I completed a “to do” project and then we took ourselves off to Pirate Beach just off our bow. The wind is still blowing – I heard a figure of 34 knots – but we are nicely tucked away behind the little hill and are fairly comfortable. The sea is flat so we decided to take ourselves off to the beach till lunch time. This just to get off the boat and do some walking and preventing “cabin fever!!!” It was very pleasant on the beach – intermittent sunshine, hot when the wind wasn’t blowing and the water was warm. An interesting phenomenon was that, on the beach, the wind was actually blowing onto the beach!! This in contrast to the actual wind direction which was AWAY from the island!!!!

Once again he wind has piped up and there are some powerful gusts. Two boats left this morning – one a 48’ motor-sailor (John and Jane on Exploerer II who we met at Little Farmers Cay a few days ago) headed off southwards and later a motor yacht packed up and motored away in the direction of Staniel Cay – presumably to the marina. Apart from those two boats there’s been no other movement.

This afternoon we are just spending some quiet time, reading, napping, chatting etc.

2012-03-08 Patience…..

We wait and wait and wait and still there’s no let up in the weather :( Never mind!! We enjoy pancakes for a late breakfast with lovely Canadian Maple syrup (complements of Amanda and Steve of Diana – see chasingice.ca). Then we laze and read a bit till lunch time. We notice a few of the bigger boats and big catamarans have left – guess they don’t mind the 25-30 knot winds or else they have a schedule to be somewhere! We prefer gentler winds and calmer waters. Mary and Estelle spent some time this morning doing the clothes washing!! Everything has been hung up on the flybridge where it’s actually baking hot as it acts like a little greenhouse :) which is a good thing as we had a couple of squalls coming over with howling wind and drenching rain. Very short-lived, mind you!!

This afternoon, after lunch we all went to the beach to soak up some sun and avoid cabin fever.

Listening to the VHF it seems that a lot of folks are suffering from said cabin fever and there have been a few more people venturing out to the beaches today. We are the closest boat to the one beach which makes it nice and easy for us :)

The forecast is still for high winds through to Tuesday with a possible decrease on Friday or Saturday. Patience…..

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2012-02-25 to 28 Guests Arrive

2012-02-25 Arrivals!!

So today we decided to move to town and do some shopping and then anchor near sand Dollar Beach and organise a water taxi to take us into George Town later to collect Estelle and Alastair. We upanchored and on our way Mary espied two mooring balls vacant near Volleyball Beach (Chat ‘n’ Chill). At this time we were passing Elvis in his water taxi. He also happens to be the harbour master so Mary radioed him to ask if a ball was actually available. One was. So we about turned headed into Gaviota Bay and picked up the mooring ball – without wrecking and losing a boat hook. While there we organised a pump out – good grief, it’s amazing how quickly 2 people can fill a 40 gal tank!!! We then dinghied the 1.25 mile into George Town and bout some essential supplies (beer mainly, oh and a few groceries) We were so loaded that I couldn’t get the dinghy to plane on the way back to Amanzi, so it was a slow trip back!

Later, Elvis picked us up in his water taxi and ferried us to George Town government dock. There we proceeded to had a beer – Elvis had a supply in a cooler on his water taxi – and waited for the new arrivals. Estelle and Alastair duly arrived looking quite frazzled after their long trip from Scotland and were happy to get back to Amanzi via Elvis’ water taxi again.

Collapsed into bed after a light dinner and slept soundly

2012-02-26 Pig Roast at Chat ‘n’ Chill

Took ourselves off to Volleyball Beach and showed Alastair and Estelle around. Then we had a great pork roast at the Chat ‘n’ Chill for lunch. Sadly, though, the crackling was very soggy and not crackly at all but the rest was great. This was the first time we had rice and peas which is a traditional Bahamian dish which we have avoided till now as we envisaged white rice and green peas but this was spicy rice with black peas and tasted really good. Spent the  afternoon lazing around.

2012-02-27 Anchors dragging –  Pet Parade and Official Regatta Opening

Last night was an extremely bumpy night as the wind piped up to around 20-25 knots. Earlier yesterday we watched as a sailboat tried to squeeze into a small area in front of a motor yacht (MY) and behind the first line of mooring balls. It was very entertaining as he tried 4 times to set his anchor, It was a case of down anchor, up anchor, reverse a full 360 degrees, reposition, drop anchor, try to set it, it’s too close to the motor yacht, up anchor and try again – FOUR times!! Makes you think!

Anyway, Mary was awake due to the wind around midnight and noticed said sailboat moving backwards in the dark!!! Looked to be reversing again. Then the shouting started. Mary woke me up to tell me the yacht was dragging its anchor. Sure enough it was almost colliding with the motor yacht!!! We had grandstand seats for this but they managed to extricate themselves and anchored behind the motor yacht. This morning the motor yacht moved elsewhere and soon after the yacht moved in the same direction. Hopefully they didn’t go and anchor in front of the MY again!!!!

After lunch we went to the “pet parade” put on by the cruisers with their pets and then stayed for the official opening which was really excellent entertainment put on by various very talented cruisers

Quite an interesting experience trying to find Amanzi in the dark with a multitude of other boats around all displaying only a single anchor light. We knew the rough direction and it was quite close so didn’t really have any trouble. Some boats were anchored more than a mile away so I guess they had a very wet dinghy ride back to their boats!

2012-02-28 George Town

Today I completed some small projects – including setting up my new iPad after the last one died. We then got a pump out (again!!!) and then took a water taxi into town across the harbour. It was pretty windy and there was quite a chop so we decided to forego Amadink and use the water taxi instead. In town we got some laundry done and then went to Club Peace and Plenty for lunch but we were too late so headed across the road for a lovely light meal at the Driftwood Café.

More shopping – fins for Estelle and Alastair – and then some supplies including a case of Kalik – the local beer which I find very tasty and enjoyable. Then it was a walk back to the water taxi carrying all the supplies which included 2 cases of soft drinks cans. Waited arounf chatting to some other cruisers who had flown back home for 3 weeks and were returning to their boat. They actually have a young (30s) crew member who actually sails their boat back to the USa while they fly in and out.

Now we are waiting for the next weather window so start our return journey to Fernandina Beach. Looks like sometime from Thursday through Sunday and then some big winds are predicted. We’ll see. We’re not sure :)

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