Mary and Lance – cruising the Bahamas

So, we’re still stuck in Bimini, waiting to cross to West Palm Beach. Sadly we are still waiting for Aeolus** to smile upon us. It appears that he will be sending fair winds from tomorrow and we will probably be heading to the US on Saturday. The last few days it has been blowing around 18 knots consistently from the E/NE – unfavorably for the trip.

We spend our time wandering around Alicetown, going to the beach, talking to other cruisers and eating lobster!

Yesterday we met an Australian couple, Carol and Terry, who are from the western side of Australia. They sold their home and bought a boat in Annapolis last year and have spent till now, fitting it out and traveling down the ICW and finally made it across the Gulf stream a few days ago. Sold him my Hawaiian sling as I have no further use for it!!

Wandering along the western beach of Bimini we came across another wreck – guess this is what happens if you don’t pay attention!! On the western side, the beach and sea are still idyllic as it is protected from the wind. So we keep working on our sun tans!!

In the meantime we buy, yes buy, lobsters from a local fishing boat at $30 for a dozen!! Cheaper than going out and diving for them myself!! So we have lobster salad, lobster in bread rolls, lobster fettuchini, lobster……

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Lobster, lobster....

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Freezer full of lobster

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Western side of Bimini

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Shipwreck!

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Sad state of decay

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Ah well, it’s a hard life….

** Aeolus – Greek God of the Winds

Well, as you can see from our map track we are at anchor off Chub Cay. We had a good trip from Nassau with 15 knot NE/E winds and a 3-5 ft swell on our starboard quarter (right bum for the non-nautical readers). It was quite rolly so we drove from the lower helm station and it was really very pleasant.

We passed John and Jane from Explorer II as they had left earlier and we met up again at Chub Cay where they also anchored out. We all dinghied in to Chub Cay Marina and walked around to the “resort” which is in a very sad state of non-completion and disrepair and not functioning. However, the fresh water pool was very inviting and we all enjoyed a great swim.

On the way today a fish took our lure and just ran and ran and ran with it. I saw my line disappearing from my reel at a great rate of knots and decided to tighten the brake to try to turn the fish. Whatever it was, it just kept running and eventually the line snapped Don’t know what it was but it was huge. John thinks it may have been a marlin but I think it may have been a large wahoo. We’ll never know sadly.Nothing took the next lure

Anyway this is another perfect anchorage and we will head across to Bimini tomorrow.

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Coffee at Starbucks at Marathom Mall, Nassau

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Waiting for bus outside Marathon Mall

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Heading out of Nassau Harbour

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Nassau Harbour

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Atlantis - Nassau Harbour

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Chub Cay Club swimming pool

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Enjoying a dip

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Nice surrounds

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So, how did I lose my wife?? Easily, in Nassau!!

We went to Marathon Mall for some shopping – retail therapy, as some would say – and then into Nassau for the final souvinir shopping. So, Mary wanted to go her own way and I went elsewhere. We had arranged to meet at an ice cream parlour after an hour. Well, both Mary and I had very different ideas of WHICH ice cream parlour!!! So there I was waiting at one and she at the other. Of course, the heavens also decided to open and allow the God’s tears to fall down upon us. The poor tourists from the 5 cruise ships were all totally soaked including those on their hired scooters in the pouring rain!!

So, time passes and no Mary!! So I head off to the straw market to see if she’s there – no Mary, Then off to Sbarro Italain restaurant where we had previously had a meal – no Mary. Back to the Ice cream parlour – no Mary. The an ambulance goes screeching by with siren blaring. Oh no, has something happened to Mary??? Then a police car!! Still no Mary.

What to do? What to do?? No way to communicate – cell phones don’t work in the Bahamas. What to do???

So I decide after 1 1/2 hours to see if she has returned to the boat. Catch a jitney bus. So sloooooow as it’s now rush hour!! Get back to the boat. No-one there. Head back to town. Waiting, waiting for bus!!! Talk to another Bahamian.  I suggest I’ll try to hitch. He says no-one will stop to pick me up. Maybe in the islands but not in Nassau.

Still waiting for bus. Come on!!!! where is it??

Eventually it arrives! Quicker trip into town – no traffic going in. Back to ice cream parlour, Sbarro, straw market. No Mary!! Now what??

Decide to head down towards cruise ships to see if she may be waiting where the bus dropped us. Round a corner! Relief there she is!!! waiting for me. Every dark thought, worry and emotion has overtaken me but the sight of her and the relief I felt was indescribable.

So, what happened?? Simple really – different ice cream shops and no plan B!!!!!

Well, I didn’t quite finish my last blog before publishing it but with limited internet – 100MB/24 hour!!!…….

Yesterday we were up at sparrows to get everything ready for the trip to Nassau and also to make some more water – 4 adult showers per day plus the other stuff doesn’t take long to empty the tank. But that’s why I installed this magic device

Then, get the weather from Chris Parker on the SSB. Even though he had no other broadcasts before the 6.30am schedule he was still about 10-15 minutes late in starting. It’s a time that we always worry whether we are actually getting SSB reception!! The forecast was for the best day to travel for the next several!! At least he didn’t use a comment that he often uses – “IT’S THE LEAST BAD DAY TO TRAVEL” to travel!!

So at 7 we dropped the mooring ball and headed out, shouting our goodbyes to more friends including my “patient” whom we had met at Warderick Wells. Once again with a feeling of loss – loss that we’ll probably never see some of these wonderful cruisers again. Mind you, we’ll try to keep in touch via emails etc.

It was a very rolly trip to Nassau. The wind was supposed to be from the NNE/E which it had been blowing for the last number of days. So, the swell should have been from the east and on our starboard quarter. Well, it certainly was not as I had expected. Initially it was from the south and later from the E/NE/N – in fact it seemed to be from everywhere but where we expected it to be.

So, mainly beam seas means a rolly voyage. But hey, the day was great, the weather was mostly good and those Cummins engines just growled along as we ate up the miles.

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Amanzi in the beautiful waters of Warderick Wells

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Heading to Nassau - windy with choppy sea

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Danger!!! Coral heads just under the surface crossing the Yellow Banks

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Another coral Head

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Gotta dodge these mean coral heads. Our track was pretty zig zag for awhile!

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Got to Nassau about 2.30, tried to hail Nassau Harbour Control with the usual lack of success – as did a number of other boats!! We did manage to get hold of Jo and Mik on Asian Lady as they were also entering the harbour. We had first met them in Elizabeth City, North Carolina, and again in George Town, Exuma!!! This is one of the great aspects of cruising that offsets the loss of other friendships

Anyway, we are now tucked into a slip in Nassau Harbour Club Marina where we were when we were in Nassau before travelling to the Exumas. Familiarity with a place is quite nice:) I must admit that I wondered whether I would fit the boat between the two outer piles of the slip but I think I had about 6 inches on either side as I cam in!!!

Had som Domino’s pizza for dinner last night and crashed at about 9pm and only woke again at around 6 this morning – what a great sleep!!!

It’s also great to have unlimited ultra fast broadband again and have already Skyped Dominique, our middle daughter, in NZ even though it was about 2am there. What were you doing up so late?

Wanted to wash all the accumulated salt off the boat this morning but I think the rain may have done so, but we’ll still give Amanzi a good washdown.

Yesterday Mary and I went to chat with Clare and Francis and I especially wanted to see how Clare’s knee wound was doing. Meant it to be a short visit but time seemed to contract around our visit. Fortunately her wound was fine and she had had a good night.

Got back to Amanzi for a very late lunch with Estelle and Alastair who were waiting very patiently while we were out visiting

After lunch Alastair decided on a few zzzzz’s while Estelle and I went snorkelling along the coral gardens. Once again saw many humungous lobsters – unfortunately still in the Exuma National Park so couldn’t take any for dinner Mary stayed on Amanzi and busied herself with baking bread  and chocolate brownies – yummy!!!

Last night the wind picked up a lot and we had a bouncy night with the current trying to move the boat in one direction and the wind in another. Would that they were  in sync!!! I had a good sleep though:)

2012-03-12 Hopefully we’ll be moving tomorrow

Today was another windy day but we took ourselves off for a walk on one of the trails on the islands. Saw some beautiful secluded beaches and great views of the Exuma Sound.

All things being equal we should be on the move again tomorrow. There seems to be a very short weather window so we’ll probably make the dash to Nassau where we’ll be in a marina till we can move again. As you can see from our track we are slowly making our way north and west towards the USA and, ultimately, Fernandina Beach.

It just seems to us – and everyone else we seem to talk to – that the winds are much stronger than usual and this is keeping most cruisers from continuing their various journeys. We are of the few that are heading north as there still seems to be a preponderance of cruisers moving south.

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Walking on a sand bank at low tide

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NZ OSH would have an apoplexy with this bridge!!!

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So, yesterday afternoon we were having some quiet time on Amanzi when we heard a dinghy coming by and yelling “is there a doctor on board?” Another cruiser’s wife had slipped an gashed her knee open. Fortunately, I have a suture kit on board, so, after the acquisition of some Lidocaine (local anesthetic) I headed over to their boat to effect a much needed repair:) Someone, long ago, coined the term that a definition of cruising was fixing boats in exotic places. I didn’t expect the definition to include fixing people in exotic places.

On their boat, Moya, I met Clair and Francis. They are both ex South African and Francis grew up in Port Elizabeth, a city in which I grew up in! Small world, huh?? But, even better is that Clare’s father attended the same school that my dad attended in Cape Town, Bishop’s Preparatory School for boys!!!! The world just keeps getting smaller

Anyway, after anesthetizing the area, I cleaned the wound and inserted a few stitches (sutures), closing the nasty gash. She had been walking in the shallows and stepped into a large hole, falling forward with her knee landing on the sharp edges of a conch shell. Just shows how easily accidents happen.

After that headed back to Amanzi and then went to the beach for sundowners and pot luck with the other cruisers.

Yesterday we were still at anchor at Big Majors Spot when a large motor yacht came powering in and anchored behind us. We noticed her name – Pirate. She had also been here on our first visit to Big Majors a few weeks ago. The beach opposite us has been unofficially named Pirate’s beach as the couple on Pirate had apparently done a lot to clean the beach and place new furniture there after Hurricane Irene!

As I started lifting my anchor and we moved off I noticed Pirate lifting her anchor and moving into the spot we had just vacated It was a good spot:)

So we headed round to Staniel Cay for some fuel and liquid supplies and then headed towards Warderick Wells. It was a lovely trip north – windy and swelly but from behind us so we weren’t too bothered. Estelle spent the whole 3 hours on the foredeck enjoying the sun and view.

Heading towards Warderick Wells we weren’t too hopeful of getting a mooring ball – usually you have to radio in the day before and get your name on the waiting list. Fortune smiled on us and we got a ball immediately Apparently all the boats had left that morning, like us, taking advantage of the fair traveling weather.

We picked up mooring ball #11, had a leisurely lunch and then dinghied to Park HQ to register, pay for the ball and buy some internet time.

Enjoyed another meal of delicious Mahi Mahi and then repaired to bed!!

This morning we were out early and hiked up to the blow holes and Boo Boo Hill. We got to the blow holes just at high tide and enjoyed the noise of the surf blowing through them but there was little spray as the swell had died down. Then continued to Boo Boo hill, found the sign we had left on our last visit and stacked it on the pile again.

On the beach again we met a few other couples who had come in today – a couple from the UK as well as a SA couple based in Florida.

Soon we’ll be off to the beach again for “pot luck” sundowners with all the other boaters who have arrived today filling up this mooring field.

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Warderick Wells

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Whale skeleton - Warderick Wells

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Warderick Wells

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Warderick Wells

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The anchorage

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"Powerful Beach" - Warderick Wells

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View from park HQ

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Another view from Park HQ

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Playing on the musical stones on way to Boo Boo Hill

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Gotta cross Banshee Creek to Boo Boo Hill

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Wading through Banshee Creek

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Exuma Sound - view from Boo Boo Hill Blow Holes

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The anhorage

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Brilliant colours

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Our name board on Boo Boo Hill

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Name board amongst all the others

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I had a visitor on Boo Boo Hill

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Estelle and Alastair on Boo Boo Hill

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More views from top of Boo Boo hill

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Cute!

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Swimming off back of boat - note rope securing me frm STRONG current!!!

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Today we decided to try for a visit to Thunderball Grotto. So we all suited up in our best finery – neoprene wetsuits – and set off. The wind was still very strong but we decided to try anyway.

All was well on the western side of Big Majors but as we rounded the headland we were hit full force by the wind and waves. We plodded on a small distance but then turned back – defeated by the weather again

So, the swimming pigs were fed the bread we had taken along for the fish and they loved it. At the end of “piggy beach” we stopped to do a bit of snorkelling on a coral reef. I threw out Amadink’s anchor and Estelle set off. As luck would have it, one of the pigs decided to join her in the water!!! So we beat a hasty retreat a bit further up where the pigs couldn’t get to us.

Then we enjoyed a leisurely few hours exploring the various coral reefs where we saw many small fish and a huge starfish – we are convinced it was the same one we had seen when we were here a few weeks ago with Leanne and the boys.

Also saw a large stingray swimming past.

Then it was back to Amanzi for hot showers and hot drinks. After a few hours in the water we were all a bit chilled and a really hot luxurious shower was just what the doctor ordered

Now it’s time to BBQ the steak.

Tomorrow we will hopefully head further north to Warderick Wells as we have a very short weather window for moving.

Have not had decent reliable internet for some time now so this will be a long blog. I will publish this and then pload photos so keep a lookout for the photos – hopefully at the same time but “this is the Bahamas, mon! Who knows…”

2012-02-25 New arrivals!!

So today we decided to move to town and do some shopping and then anchor near sand Dollar Beach and organise a water taxi to take us into George Town later to collect Estelle and Alastair. We upanchored and on our way Mary espied two mooring balls vacant near Volleyball Beach (Chat ‘n’ Chill). At this time we were passing Elvis in his water taxi. He also happens to be the harbour master so Mary radioed him to ask if a ball was actually available. One was. So we about turned headed into Gaviota Bay and picked up the mooring ball – without wrecking and losing a boat hook. While there we organised a pump out – good grief, it’s amazing how quickly 2 people can fill a 40 gal tank!!! We then dinghied the 1.25 mile into George Town and bout some essential supplies (beer mainly, oh and a few groceries) We were so loaded that I couldn’t get the dinghy to plane on the way back to Amanzi, so it was a slow trip back!

Later, Elvis picked us up in his water taxi and ferried us to George Town government dock. There we proceeded to had a beer – Elvis had a supply in a cooler on his water taxi – and waited for the new arrivals. Estelle and Alastair duly arrived looking quite frazzled after their long trip from Scotland and were happy to get back to Amanzi via Elvis’ water taxi again.

Collapsed into bed after a light dinner and slept soundly

2012-02-26 Pig Roast at Chat ‘n’ Chill

Took ourselves off to Volleyball Beach and showed Alastair and Estelle around. Then we had a great pork roast at the Chat ‘n’ Chill for lunch. Sadly, though, the crackling was very soggy and not crackly at all but the rest was great. This was the first time we had rice and peas which is a traditional Bahamian dish which we have avoided till now as we envisaged white rice and green peas but this was spicy rice with black peas and tasted really good. Spent the  afternoon lazing around.

2012-02-27 Anchors dragging –  Pet Parade and Official Regatta Opening

Last night was an extremely bumpy night as the wind piped up to around 20-25 knots. Earlier yesterday we watched as a sailboat tried to squeeze into a small area in front of a motor yacht (MY) and behind the first line of mooring balls. It was very entertaining as he tried 4 times to set his anchor, It was a case of down anchor, up anchor, reverse a full 360 degrees, reposition, drop anchor, try to set it, it’s too close to the motor yacht, up anchor and try again – FOUR times!! Makes you think!

Anyway, Mary was awake due to the wind around midnight and noticed said sailboat moving backwards in the dark!!! Looked to be reversing again. Then the shouting started. Mary woke me up to tell me the yacht was dragging its anchor. Sure enough it was almost colliding with the motor yacht!!! We had grandstand seats for this but they managed to extricate themselves and anchored behind the motor yacht. This morning the motor yacht moved elsewhere and soon after the yacht moved in the same direction. Hopefully they didn’t go and anchor in front of the MY again!!!!

After lunch we went to the “pet parade” put on by the cruisers with their pets and then stayed for the official opening which was really excellent entertainment put on by various very talented cruisers

Quite an interesting experience trying to find Amanzi in the dark with a multitude of other boats around all displaying only a single anchor light. We knew the rough direction and it was quite close so didn’t really have any trouble. Some boats were anchored more than a mile away so I guess they had a very wet dinghy ride back to their boats!

2012-02-28 George Town

Today I completed some small projects – including setting up my new iPad after the last one died. We then got a pump out (again!!!) and then took a water taxi into town across the harbour. It was pretty windy and there was quite a chop so we decided to forego Amadink and use the water taxi instead. In town we got some laundry done and then went to Club Peace and Plenty for lunch but we were too late so headed across the road for a lovely light meal at the Driftwood Café.

More shopping – fins for Estelle and Alastair – and then some supplies including a case of Kalik – the local beer which I find very tasty and enjoyable. Then it was a walk back to the water taxi carrying all the supplies which included 2 cases of soft drinks cans. Waited arounf chatting to some other cruisers who had flown back home for 3 weeks and were returning to their boat. They actually have a young (30s) crew member who actually sails their boat back to the USa while they fly in and out.

Now we are waiting for the next weather window so start our return journey to Fernandina Beach. Looks like sometime from Thursday through Sunday and then some big winds are predicted. We’ll see. We’re not sure

2012-02-29 Weather window soon

Today we dropped the mooring ball and headed to our favourite anchorage just west of Goat Cay. This we did in preparation for an early start on our journey northbound starting tomorrow. There is a small weather window tomorrow and then reasonable weather till Sunday after which the weather is going to be slamming us with 25-30 knot winds gusting to 35+ So we are heading towards Big Majors Spot at Staniel Cay where we should have good protection from the predicted east winds.

In the Goat Cay anchorage we found it quite rolly although we were protected from the wind. We noticed that is was worst at high tide when the north easterly swell rolled in over the various shoals from the Exuma Sound. It settled down and we actually had a good night’s sleep.

2012-03-01 Heading North to Little Farmer’s Cay —–  MAHI MAHI

We awoke at sparrows to check out the weather report. All seemed good for a very early start so that we would enter the cut at Little Farmers Cay just before high tide. After our last experience we didn’t want to enter the cut on a falling tide with the water rushing out against the wind causing huge standing waves.

We were having a good trip with 10-15 knot wind out of the south east and the swell also out of the south east (onto our starboard [right hand side] quarter). About half way there, Mary was getting some drinks when she noticed the tip of the fishing rod suddenly bend over followed by the unmistakable zzzzzzz of the ratchet.

“FISH” she  shouted up to me on the flybridge as she scrambled up. I rushed down, fitted my fishing buckle and started playing the fish and gradually reeling it in. Great excitement as I eventually brought it alongside and Estelle gaffed it and we hauled it on board.

There was no time to get the alcohol to pour into its gills so I got a rope line around its tail and hung it over the side of the boat (not in the water!!! Didn’t want to share it with the sharks ) Unfortunately the line was a bit short and I didn’t cleat it properly and suddenly said Mahi Mahi was swimming away to freedom Fortunately I hadn’t removed the hook so I brought it in again and this time secured it properly!!!!

This was a much larger Mahi Mahi than the one I caught on the way down

Arrived in Little Farmers just before the tide turned and picked up a mooring ball and proceeded to fillet the fish. Mmmm, lots of fillets in the freezer now

We then headed into town to pay for the mooring ball and had a drink at the Ocean Cabin Bar and Restaurant where we had an interesting conversation with Terry, the owner! He is very well travelled, educated and read!!!

Back at Amanzi we BBQ’d a large fillet of Mahi Mahi and enjoyed a sumptuous meal. After that it was time to turn in for the night.

2012-03-02 Little Farmers Cay to Big Majors Spot via Little Guana Cay

Had a long lie, caught up on the weather and eventually set off around mid morning. The wind was a bit stronger and there was a considerable swell but, once again from behind, so we had a good trip to Little Guana Cay where we stopped to go ashore and have a look at the iguanas. These were quite brave and I had one come up to within 30cm of my foot. Quite amazing little creatures!!!

After lunch we continued our journey to Big Majors Spot and tucked ourselves in nice and close to the beach so that we will be well protected from the big winds which are due on Monday and will last for the week.

Now it’s time to see if we will see the green flash as the sun sets but I am doubtful as there is some land in the way. More later…

Sundowners in the cockpit as we watched the sun go down. There were some small cays in the way the setting sun so we weren’t sure if we would see the green flash. Both Mary and I did see the flash just as the sun had dipped below the horizon:) That’s twice now that we’ve seen it!!! And here I had always been the all time sceptic

2012-03-03 Swimming pigs and Staniel Cay – Provisions

This morning we dinghied to “piggy beach” (as we call it) to see the swimming pigs. They weren’t much interested in the scraps of food we brought them but were, once again, fascinating to watch. There was also a litter (?) of about 12 piglets on the beach!! Makes me wonder what has happened to previous litters – dinner for someone??? Also large numbers of smallish fish around – I guess they have learnt that there is always food available if the pigs don’t get it first!

After that we continued around the headland towards Staniel Cay and were slammed by the wind and waves. Fortunately we had taken the precaution of wearing swimming trunks for the trip!! We seemed to be the only mad people in a small dinghy heading to Staniel Cay Yacht Club! Anyway, we showed Estelle and Alastair around and picked up some supplies from the pink and blue stores as well as at Isles General Store. The stores were quite well supplied so I guess the mail boat had been in recently. Nice tomatoes were not available sadly. And the grapes at $4 per pound were a bit expensive!

Headed back to the yacht club for lunch and some internet time – mainly for the weather. Unfortunately I didn’t place my blog onto the memory stick so couldn’t upload it

Heading back to Amanzi we didn’t get as wet although the trip was a lot bouncier as the wind had piped up but the swell was on our stern.

WEATHER UPDATE – we are still waiting for the front to arrive after which we are expecting winds of 25-30 knots – gusting to 35. At the moment we are doing something we would never have dreamed of doing in our previous sailing life!!!!! And that’s being anchored on a lee shore!!!! This screams at me as being contrary to everything I have learnt and practised!! But there is little option as the wind is expected to clock around from SE to S to SW (current position) to W. fortunately the wind is expected to diminish a bit as it moves through these directions. Tonight at about 10pm the wind will swing to the N and then NE/E and then we’ll be correctly aligned in the lee of the shore. So we wait in anticipation – or is that trepidation???

2012-03-04 Waiting for wind shift

The wind has been blowing southerly and we spent the whole day waiting for it to clock around. We knew it was going to clock SW à Wà NW à N àNE. As we were quite close to the beach – we had really tucked ourselves in close in preparation for the N/NE/E – we did not want to be away from the boat when we swung around. Had to make sure that we didn’t end up on the beach or that the anchor didn’t drag as we swung around!!! As I said, we waited the whole day!!! And we slowly angled round as far as W/SW. Then at about 9pm the wind hit and we rapidly swung around W àNW à N à N/NE. The actual onset of the change was sudden and dramatic!!

Anyway, there were no problems and we swung around safely and my Manson Supreme anchor held perfectly – gotta love that anchor and chain

2012-03-05 Miserable day – Boat Projects – Canasta

Today dawned cold and windy and overcast. So it was a day for some boat projects and then an enjoyable afternoon playing Canasta. The boys vs the girls. Sadly, the boys were not up to the task and were trounced by the girls. That evening it was BBQ’d Mahi Mahi for dinner again – yummy and scrumptious!

The early part of the night was relatively calm but the wind and gusts started coming through at about 2am but, due to our proximity to the island, the sea was quite calm

2012-03-07 Boat projects completed – “Pirate Beach”

This morning I completed a “to do” project and then we took ourselves off to Pirate Beach just off our bow. The wind is still blowing – I heard a figure of 34 knots – but we are nicely tucked away behind the little hill and are fairly comfortable. The sea is flat so we decided to take ourselves off to the beach till lunch time. This just to get off the boat and do some walking and preventing “cabin fever!!!” It was very pleasant on the beach – intermittent sunshine, hot when the wind wasn’t blowing and the water was warm. An interesting phenomenon was that, on the beach, the wind was actually blowing onto the beach!! This in contrast to the actual wind direction which was AWAY from the island!!!!

Once again he wind has piped up and there are some powerful gusts. Two boats left this morning – one a 48’ motor-sailor (John and Jane on Exploerer II who we met at Little Farmers Cay a few days ago) headed off southwards and later a motor yacht packed up and motored away in the direction of Staniel Cay – presumably to the marina. Apart from those two boats there’s been no other movement.

This afternoon we are just spending some quiet time, reading, napping, chatting etc.

2012-03-08 Patience…..

We wait and wait and wait and still there’s no let up in the weather Never mind!! We enjoy pancakes for a late breakfast with lovely Canadian Maple syrup (complements of Amanda and Steve of Diana – see chasingice.ca). Then we laze and read a bit till lunch time. We notice a few of the bigger boats and big catamarans have left – guess they don’t mind the 25-30 knot winds or else they have a schedule to be somewhere! We prefer gentler winds and calmer waters. Mary and Estelle spent some time this morning doing the clothes washing!! Everything has been hung up on the flybridge where it’s actually baking hot as it acts like a little greenhouse which is a good thing as we had a couple of squalls coming over with howling wind and drenching rain. Very short-lived, mind you!!

This afternoon, after lunch we all went to the beach to soak up some sun and avoid cabin fever.

Listening to the VHF it seems that a lot of folks are suffering from said cabin fever and there have been a few more people venturing out to the beaches today. We are the closest boat to the one beach which makes it nice and easy for us

The forecast is still for high winds through to Tuesday with a possible decrease on Friday or Saturday. Patience…..

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2012-02-25 Arrivals!!

So today we decided to move to town and do some shopping and then anchor near sand Dollar Beach and organise a water taxi to take us into George Town later to collect Estelle and Alastair. We upanchored and on our way Mary espied two mooring balls vacant near Volleyball Beach (Chat ‘n’ Chill). At this time we were passing Elvis in his water taxi. He also happens to be the harbour master so Mary radioed him to ask if a ball was actually available. One was. So we about turned headed into Gaviota Bay and picked up the mooring ball – without wrecking and losing a boat hook. While there we organised a pump out – good grief, it’s amazing how quickly 2 people can fill a 40 gal tank!!! We then dinghied the 1.25 mile into George Town and bout some essential supplies (beer mainly, oh and a few groceries) We were so loaded that I couldn’t get the dinghy to plane on the way back to Amanzi, so it was a slow trip back!

Later, Elvis picked us up in his water taxi and ferried us to George Town government dock. There we proceeded to had a beer – Elvis had a supply in a cooler on his water taxi – and waited for the new arrivals. Estelle and Alastair duly arrived looking quite frazzled after their long trip from Scotland and were happy to get back to Amanzi via Elvis’ water taxi again.

Collapsed into bed after a light dinner and slept soundly

2012-02-26 Pig Roast at Chat ‘n’ Chill

Took ourselves off to Volleyball Beach and showed Alastair and Estelle around. Then we had a great pork roast at the Chat ‘n’ Chill for lunch. Sadly, though, the crackling was very soggy and not crackly at all but the rest was great. This was the first time we had rice and peas which is a traditional Bahamian dish which we have avoided till now as we envisaged white rice and green peas but this was spicy rice with black peas and tasted really good. Spent the  afternoon lazing around.

2012-02-27 Anchors dragging –  Pet Parade and Official Regatta Opening

Last night was an extremely bumpy night as the wind piped up to around 20-25 knots. Earlier yesterday we watched as a sailboat tried to squeeze into a small area in front of a motor yacht (MY) and behind the first line of mooring balls. It was very entertaining as he tried 4 times to set his anchor, It was a case of down anchor, up anchor, reverse a full 360 degrees, reposition, drop anchor, try to set it, it’s too close to the motor yacht, up anchor and try again – FOUR times!! Makes you think!

Anyway, Mary was awake due to the wind around midnight and noticed said sailboat moving backwards in the dark!!! Looked to be reversing again. Then the shouting started. Mary woke me up to tell me the yacht was dragging its anchor. Sure enough it was almost colliding with the motor yacht!!! We had grandstand seats for this but they managed to extricate themselves and anchored behind the motor yacht. This morning the motor yacht moved elsewhere and soon after the yacht moved in the same direction. Hopefully they didn’t go and anchor in front of the MY again!!!!

After lunch we went to the “pet parade” put on by the cruisers with their pets and then stayed for the official opening which was really excellent entertainment put on by various very talented cruisers

Quite an interesting experience trying to find Amanzi in the dark with a multitude of other boats around all displaying only a single anchor light. We knew the rough direction and it was quite close so didn’t really have any trouble. Some boats were anchored more than a mile away so I guess they had a very wet dinghy ride back to their boats!

2012-02-28 George Town

Today I completed some small projects – including setting up my new iPad after the last one died. We then got a pump out (again!!!) and then took a water taxi into town across the harbour. It was pretty windy and there was quite a chop so we decided to forego Amadink and use the water taxi instead. In town we got some laundry done and then went to Club Peace and Plenty for lunch but we were too late so headed across the road for a lovely light meal at the Driftwood Café.

More shopping – fins for Estelle and Alastair – and then some supplies including a case of Kalik – the local beer which I find very tasty and enjoyable. Then it was a walk back to the water taxi carrying all the supplies which included 2 cases of soft drinks cans. Waited arounf chatting to some other cruisers who had flown back home for 3 weeks and were returning to their boat. They actually have a young (30s) crew member who actually sails their boat back to the USa while they fly in and out.

Now we are waiting for the next weather window so start our return journey to Fernandina Beach. Looks like sometime from Thursday through Sunday and then some big winds are predicted. We’ll see. We’re not sure

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Yep, 33 years later and still going strong, although after this trip, who knows Thanks so much for the last 33 years and especially the last 6 months making my dream come true.

Today is another day for just chilling while we wait for Estelle and Alastair to arrive tomorrow evening. We’ve got the taxi share from the airport organised but hope they got the message about it. Now we’ve been trying to arrange the water taxi but radio comms is not the best. We are behind a small land mass which shields us and the water taxi is using a hand led which has very limited range. So we’ll dinghy across to the beach and walk to the other side of the Cay and see if we can establish a better contact.

Tomorrow we’ll head round to the town side and do some more grocery shopping and then head across to Stocking island to find a nice snug anchorage to wait out the big winds that are forecast for the next 3-4 days. I sometime think we should have named the boat “Dodging Wind” and not Amanzi I guess that’s’ the difference between a sailor (loves wind) and a power boater (hates wind)!! Although, I must say that at least the wind does have a cooling effect!!

2012-02-20 Moving, Scrabble Volleyball, Grumpy old men

The weather has once again forced us to give up our beautiful little anchorage and move to another where we’ll be for the next few days. Mind you, we’ll be closer to the “action” at Chat ‘n’ Chill (Volleyball Beach). Coming into the anchorage we had called up the pump out boat (to empty the holding tank) and he followed us in so it was a case of quickly choose our spot, drop and then set the anchor so that we could hook up with the pump out boat. Well, we got a great spot and set the anchor perfectly in an ideal position near our friends, Graham and Nancy on Finisterre, with no boats close.

Had a burger at Chat ‘n’ Chill and then Mary joined Nancy and some other ladies for a few rounds of Scrabble. I sat in the shade watching a game of volley ball and eventually joined in a game or two. This is non-regulation volleyball, played 9 a side with some fancy rules. Thoroughly enjoyed myself without making a hash of everything After that we joined Graham and Nancy for snacks and sundowners on their boat

While we had been on the beach the expected wind shift had come and when we got back to Amanzi all the boats were lying differently to when we arrived. I was still happy with our position although we were a bit closer to another trawler but in no danger of getting too close and connecting. Well, obviously that’s not what the boat owner thought when he returned from wherever!! Everything is different at night and everyone seems a lot closer that they really are. Suddenly we saw him shining a flashlight on us and then hollering our name. So I went to investigate and he rudely yelled asking if I thought we were too close. I looked and said no, at which he, once again rudely, proclaimed that he had no insurance and wished me a good night!!!!! I mean, really, if he had wanted me to move he could have just asked!! However, for the next couple of hours he seemed to be standing in his cockpit looking at us and intermittently shining his flashlight in our direction. This was quite upsetting for us but I had no concerns about our relative positions. Eventually, we decided to go to sleep but Mary decided to sleep on the salon so that she could look out every so often!!!

Needless to say, the night passed quite uneventfully but when I saw our neighbour peering at us out of his salon door – still dressed in the altogether – I decided to up-anchor and move elsewhere. Grumpy old man!!! Oh yes, we also noticed that there was a wetsuit hanging in his cockpit which we thought was him in the dark – gotta laugh at that!!!

2012-01-21 Tanning, Scrabble, Reading, Entertaining

This morning we took ourselves off to the beach and just indulged in some sun tanning before lunch. Then it was off to Volleyball Beach (Chat ‘n’ Chill) where Mary enjoyed a few games of Scrabble while I sat in the shade reading my book. I chose not to participate in volleyball as I had slightly twisted my back in the dinghy on the way back to Amanzi last night.

Later, back on Amanzi, we readied ourselves for a visit by Graham and Nancy of Finisterre. They were due at 5-5.30 but eventually arrived at about 7.30. By this time the pizza Mary had prepared and cooked was way past cold and we had eaten half as we thought they had forgotten. It appears they had got waylaid on another trawler and this delayed them. By the time they arrived it was pitch dark and I saw this dinghy zooming by us shouting “Amanzi….. Amanzi…!!!” Called out to them and they saw us.

We actually had a great time with Nancy telling us about her adventures in El Salvador as a 22 year old nurse way back in 1955 (or thereabouts). This she did while her “man,” whom she later married, was in the Korean war!! What courage and sense of adventure she had. She eventually came to head a charity hospice and her efforts were recognised in a personal meeting with Pres. George Bush the first!!!

The warmed up pizza went down well with some white wine and rum and they eventually made their way back to their boat at about 9.30. Remember, Graham is 83 and Nancy is 78!!!!!

2012-02-22 Time in which to do nothing.

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That’s what today has really been about – actually having time in which we don’t have to do anything. This is a rare and precious commodity! Just doing nothing is quite difficult as there are always projects on the “to do” list. So did a bit of reading, watched some of the sailboat “racing” organised by the cruisers and also fixed (yes… there’s that word again!!) a catch on the dinghy motor that was stuck. Mary has also been trying to get some emails done, but the WiFi is so flaky that I found it almost not worth the effort of trying – it’s just so frustrating.

This evening we may or may not go to the pot luck sundowner on the beach – a regular Wednesday evening activity. In the meantime it’s hot as hades today with little or no cooling wind – not that we’re complaining!!!!!

2012-02-23 On the move…….

Last night we again went to the beach for a pot luck sundowner party. The different types of food that the cruisers can put together is amazing. Mary had baked chocolate brownies and they didn’t last more than 5 minutes. Spoke to a number of people including Arthur and Mamiko of Matane. We met them way back in fernandina Beach and have bumped into them on a few occasions since then. They are off to Cuba soon and then onto Panama with no firm plans after that.

Talking to a number of cruisers, one gets the impression that everyone is always having one or other boat related problem. Yesterday we heard of a lady who had taken their dinghy – alone for the first time ever – to town and had somehow flipped the dinghy in the tranquil waters of Victoria lake!! It seems that the old adage that the definition of cruising – fixing boats in exotic places – is certainly true.

Today the weather has forced us to move again to our usual hidey hole when the wind turn south. We’ll be here for a day or 2 before my sister, Estelle, and her hubby, Alastair, join us for our return leg to Florida

An advantage of being here is that we have reasonable WiFi and clean water for water making

Looking at our tracks on SPOT, one may be tempted to ask what is going on? It seems as if we move from one spot – no pun intended – to another and then back again! Well, that’s what we do As our experience and confidence grows, we are more likely to simply upanchor on a whim and go somewhere else for whatever reason! Mostly we move because of the wind/wave direction but today for something sad.

Along our way from Baltimore – seems like eons ago now – we have met many wonderful people also cruising along. One couple, Steve and Amanda aboard Diana, we met in Bimini and our paths have crossed a few times since then. They are on a 29’ sailboat which they sailed all the way from Canada!!! They, like us, have had ups and downs – most recently with broken engine mounting bolts, thankfully fixed. They have been following our blog and we have been following theirs and have become quite close often sharing similar experiences.

Today we met for lunch at the Peace and Plenty restaurant. It was a great restaurant with good food and Steve and Amanda were wonderful company. Sadly, today, we go our separate ways and we are unlikely to cross paths unless they come to NZ or we go to Canada. They are continuing their adventure by going further south, while George Town is our turnaround point and we’ll be heading north. Thanks for your friendship, Steve and Amanda. We’ll be following your adventures on your blog site and hope to see you “downunder” sometime.

This is certainly one of the negatives about cruising – people enter each other’s lives, become close friends and then move on.

Well, enough of the melancholy.

After lunch we bought some supplies and returned to our wonderful little anchorage for a few more days and as I sit and write this, I can hear the music thumping out from the Palm Bay Resort just over the headland. We dinghied ashore yesterday and walked over there for a cold drink next to the pool – which a sign proclaims is only for residents!! I may test that statement out yet. We needed that drink as we had had a rather eventful morning.

We had decided to go snorkeling around some of the coral reefs around and, lo and behold, I managed to bag me 4 nice lobster Unfortunately, with all the excitement of catching these wretched beasts we forgot to take any photos!!!! How silly! But now I’ve done it all – collected conch, caught a Mahi Mahi and got some lobster.

Ahhhhh, it’s a hard life but someone has to do it!!!!!

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"Our" anchorage - peace and tranquility

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"Our" anchorage

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Cocktails at Palm Bay Resort

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Palm Bay Resort

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Beach at Palm Bay resort

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View from Palm Bay Resort

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At Palm Bay Resort

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At Palm Bay Resort

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Steve and Amanda at peace and Plenty

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Steve and Amanda at peace and Plenty

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Peace and plenty

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See the hours on Sundays

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Every morning at 8am there occurs the cruiser’s net on the VHF radio. This is a 30 minute or so time slot when various businesses, community groups or cruisers and make announcements or requests. The net is run by volunteer cruisers and is very organised. First you have to register in what category you wish to talk and then when called up you can make your announcement to all and sundry who are listening in.

Recently, well 2 days ago, I discovered that my chartplotter wasn’t getting a signal from the GPS. This was a major catastrophe as without a functional chartplotter you are essentially boating blind. Imagine driving your car in a foreign city being able to only look at the road every few minutes. That’s what boating without a chartplotter, to tell you exactly where you are, is like. Now I do have  redundancy plans with plotting software on my computers but it’s mot ideal.

So, I went on the cruisers net, explained my problem, and within 30 minutes I had been contacted by 2 other cruisers with advice. One was actually anchored right next to us and he dinghied over with a spare GPS to see if I could further diagnose the problem. Turned out later that I was able to splice his unit into mine and, voila, the chartplotter worked. Unfortunately, he didn’t want to part with his only spare! However, I now knew what the problem was and how to fix it.

Since I didn’t had a spare GPS, I simply cleaned some terminals and connections in a junction box between the GPS and chartplotter and voila again, my chart plotter is fully functional. So I didn’t have to buy a new GPS unit

This is the value of the cruisers net. There is always someone there that can help – be it with advice, spare parts, or needing something you may have.

Happiness is ………

2012-02-10 Moving around – that weather again!!

The forecast is for stronger winds from the S to the SW and then the N to NE – get the pattern??? The idea is to choose an anchorage that gives you the protection you need from the wind, but when it swings from south to west to north to north-east, it generally means you have to move from anchorage to anchorage. So yesterday we did – only to end up back where we started!!! Why, you may well ask??

Our plan was to head to a great protected bay called Gaviota Bay and pick up a mooring ball there and then hang out till the winds came and went. It all went to plan, we contacted the harbourmaster and were told there were 2-3 vacant mooring balls and all we had to do was select one. Which we did! Motored all the way into the bay where we saw 2 vacant mooring balls tucked up nice and close to shore giving great all round protection from the wind.

I must say that the mooring balls were so close that we felt we were packed in like sardines. I’m sure if we attached a line to the back end of a neighbour’s boat we could have pulled it around so that we would literally be able to walk across from ours

Anyway, we were nicely settled in when a local water taxi arrived and informed us that we were on a private mooring ball!! Why the neighbouring houseboat owner and other permanent liveaboards didn’t tell us, I will never know!! There was another vacant private ball further out with a kayak attached which the taxi guy said we could use for a few days as the owner was away. We didn’t quite like that idea either. What if the owner arrived back late in the afternoon and then we had to vacate his mooring and find an anchorage in the dark? No thank you!!

The other option was to try for one of the other mooring balls administered by the St Francis Resort. Naturally, Bahamas style, they only started work and taking radio calls from 11.30am – nice job!! So we waited until then and tried to radio them and eventually got through only to be told there were no vacancies. So what about the vacant balls we could see? No they were prepaid and the boats could return at any time! Gill at St Francis though had a South African accent and so that is always nice to hear.

The other party was called Little Toot – no idea why – but he was on Exuma Island and only intermittently answered his radio – what a way to run a business!!!

The upshot of this is that we decided to go across to George Town itself, anchor there for a few hours, visit its great metropolis, get lunch and then some supplies. Anchored without a hitch and dinghied to the government dock to dispose of our trash and then dinghied into Lake Victoria through the dinghy channel (very narrow, only one boat can really fit at a time). Man, what an experience!! The tide was ebbing and there was a HUGE current against us!! I opened the throttle but hardly moved; opened some more with little response and had to open up almost full throttle to make headway. All the while trying to avoid being smashed onto the walls by the rushing water – well, it wasn’t not quite that bad. All ended well and we tied up at the dinghy dock. Went over to Eddie Edgewater for lunch where I had a conch burger and Mary had sautéed shrimps. All very nice but the service was very poor to say the least. We weren’t even acknowledged when we walked in and had to stand at the take-away counter to find out if we could eat in the restaurant. Fortunately, the restaurant itself was very nice and the food excellent

After that we explored a bit of the “city” and, while quaint, we were disappointed in the lack of upkeep and general decay evident. Not much different to any of the small African towns we know so well.

The Exuma Market grocery store was great with everything that one would need available. So we stocked up on a number of items that we needed – including 2 cases of soft drink cans. Then made our way back to the dinghy and met up with the admiral from Polar Bear (met them in Allens Cay) and also caught up with Steve and Amanda of Diana. We hope to get together for a drink while they’re still here – they’re waiting for propane. The supply apparently didn’t arrive this week and they have to wait until Tuesday. And we totally forgot to tell them all about my Mahi Mahi as we were kind of being pestered by a local wanting to help with our groceries – essentially to lift them the 1 foot between the dock and dinghy.

We then dinghied out of the lake with the current and met an oncoming powerboat (actually just an ostentatious dinghy!!!) entering the channel. I went through first as, according to Mary the outgoing boats have right of way. The guy and his wife in the powerboat dinghy gave us huge scowls as we went past but we just waved nicely at them thinking they should lighten up a little – this is the Bahamas, mon! Only later did I read that the incoming boat has right of way, oops! In my defence, I must say that I had already partly entered the channel when the powerboat came zooming up!

Back to Amanzi, upanchored and headed back to our first anchorage where we knew we’d have a good night with the current wind direction. And we did:)

2012-02-11 Coconut Cove

This morning we moved just around the headland to take advantage of its protection once the wind shifts to the north-west and north. It’s also very sheltered here – not so much from the wind which is starting to pipe up but from the wave chop generated by the wind. So now we’re just blobbing again – Mary on the foredeck catching some sun and reading – thanks for the cooling wind – while I am doing this.

We have a great vantage point here for observing all the incoming vessels and even the few that left earlier today.

2012-02-12 bumpy, bumpy, bumpy – noisy, noisy, noisy

Yep, that was last night. The wind came up, as expected, and changed direction, as expected but swung around more than expected to the NNE. The net result was a swell swinging in around our headland. We were well protected from the wind but the swell that came surging in made for a very uncomfortable night. Imagine placing you mattress on a trampoline and trying to sleep while 2 or 3 other people are trying to bounce on the trampoline!!! Then add a couple of 2-3 year olds banging away on their toy drums all night long. That was our night.

But we weren’t the only ones. There were many other cruisers who were up in the night checking on things and we heard of more via the radio, who had had little sleep.

So, today, as planned, we up anchored and moved to a new anchorage. Just off Rocky point on the southern side of Stocking Island.

It’s still blowing like stink but the water is not as disturbed. We still have a bit of bumpity-bump but not nearly as much as last night. Pity we can’t do anything about the slapity-slap of the water on the hull – it’s very noisy!!

We’ve decided that the rest of today will be another day for blobbing. We are not inclined to take the dinghy anywhere and get soaked in the process from the choppy waters. Maybe we’ll catch up on some sorely needed zzzzz’s…….. More tomorrow

2012-02-13 Chat ‘n’ Chill

Had a great night last night – slept really well. This morning got the pumpout boat to drop by and empty our holding tank which was getting fuller. The whole of Elizabeth Harbour is a designated no-discharge zone. The aim is to keep the water in the harbour nice and clean. According to reports, though, there are about 250 boats in the harbour and only about a 45% usage of the pumpout boat. It really makes you wonder at the mentality of the people who visit here for the pristine crystal clear waters of the Bahamas and then proceed to pollute that very same water with their effluent!!! Sure it costs a bit to have the holding tank emptied but it’s not onerous (50 cents a gallon).

This morning we again bumped into Arthur and Mamiko of Matane as they were dinghying past us. It was good to catch up and, as they were going to the docks later, they offered to offload a bag of our trash there – thanks, guys!!

After all that we headed to the Chat ‘n’ Chill bar and restaurant. This seems to be the cruisers “headquarters” or hangout and is on Stocking Island across the bay from town. Most of the boats, including us, are anchored in or around this area.

We were a bit disappointed initially as we kind of expected it to be a hive of activity but there was nothing happening except a few people playing beach volleyball. We got there at about 11.30 which, it later transpired, was way too early for any real activity.

We had a great lunch at Chat ‘n’ Chill – ribs, fries and coleslaw. The ribs were done to perfection with the meat so tender it simply fell off the bone. Scrumptious While there we met a solo sailor, Randy, of Mariah, who has been coming to George Town for many many years. He invited us to come over for drinks and nibbles on his boat which is about 100m from where we are anchored. After lunch we wandered around volley ball beach some more and there were now heaps more people doing various things: playing volleyball (9 a side), basket weaving and we even saw a game of rummikub in action. We ended up chatting to a few of the regulars before heading back to Amanzi.

After lazing around for a while, we took off to Randy’s boat were we met another 2 couples, Bob and Chesley of Cygnet and George and Lynne of Sunspot Baby and had a very enjoyable social evening. It turns out that Bob and Chesley have family arriving on the same flight as our family on 25^th so we’ve organised to taxi share.

We even got to return to Amanzi in the dark which was a first for us!!

Oh yes – remember I spoke about how we wanted to tie up to a mooring ball the other day? Well yesterday a 48ft launch was on one through the strong winds and he didn’t break off the mooring, the whole mooring lifted and dragged!! With plenty of assistance from other boats he was able to stay out of the shallows and is now anchored fairly close to us. There always seems to be something on the go around here.

Just the other morning we heard of another boat that somehow got entangled with a coral head and again lots of dinghies went to assist. Yet another boat’s mast fell off just outside the harbour entrance and although he’s safely on his boat here (on a mooring ball!), his mast is on the beach and he’s waiting for decisions to be made by his insurance company!

Now it’s coffee time and then bed

2012-02-14 Valentine’s Day

Not much going on today. Dinghied over to Chat ‘n’ Chill for a while where one cruiser was holding an informal talk on cruising to and around Cuba. WE listened for a wile and also watched some beach volleyball and then headed up to St Francis Resort. There we spoke to Jill whom we had spoken to earlier on VHF. She is also an ex South African but she and her husband have been here for about 10 years. He is somehow associated with the St Francis Catamaran Company in SA. We also bought some internet time.

After that we took Amadink and headed over to George Town – about 1¼ miles across Elizabeth harbour. Got Amadink up on the plane but is was a bumpy ride There we got some provisions from the Exuma market as well as some fuel for Amadink. Then we headed back to Amanzi at great speed Lunch and a lazy afternoon followed with the completion of a few chores thrown in.

It’s a warm, calm sunny day today and we are enjoying the relaxation. So now its time foe sundowners and hopefully I can get onto the internet to publish this and some photos.

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Volleyball Beach

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Chat 'n' Chill

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Seems like a lot of my blogs end with the words “if only…” If only the wind would settle, if only the night time rocking and rolling would settle, if only we would catch a fish, if only ……

Yesterday, it all came together

The weather was perfect for our trip.

We left Little Farmers Cay at about 8am – supposedly at slack tide – so that we could traverse the Farmers Cay Cut into the Exuma Sound. Going in and out of these cuts when the wind is against the flow of water causes great big “standing” waves. These can make for a very uncomfortable trip and can be downright dangerous at times. So, we went at slack high tide (little water flowing in or out) – or so we thought!!! According to the tide tables it was high tide at 8.00. According to nature, which doesn’t always follow man made predictions, the tide had already turned and when we got to the cut it was ebbing strongly (flowing out into the Sound). The wind – not much thankfully – was SE, so we had a wind against tide situation.

Well we “rolled” out of the cut with the tide against the waves but no real issues. There were certainly “standing” waves but fortunately not too big. But an “interesting” experience nonetheless – one of my “when was the last time you did something for the first time” situations

The trip to Elizabeth Harbour was quite good – mainly against the wind and waves, so not too uncomfortable.

As always, I dropped a lure and trailed it all the way……. Always hopeful of catching something, you know!!

About 5 miles from Elizabeth Harbour, Mary was helming and I was busy in the salon when I heard a radio call. Thinking it was Mary, I called back but no reply. So I continued working. And suddenly saw the throttles moving down and the engines slowing. Looking out I saw a few other sailboats and trawlers so I figured Mary had just done the conservative thing and slowed down to let a boat pass or something.

Then she radioed down – we have 2 walkie talkies that we use to communicate with each other from the flybridge to the salon or even on land. This is how the conversation went:

Me, “WHAT?”

Mary, “Fish”

Me, “What?”

Mary, “I think you have caught a fish!!!”

I look around at the rod, step outside and, sure enough, something is taking line off my reel at a rate of knots!!! I hadn’t heard the reel over the noise of the engines.

So I grab the rod – no time to put on my rod bucket – strike and start retrieving line.

“Slow down the boat, Mary,” I yell.

“It’s already on idle speed” she hollars back.

“Take it out of gear,” I scream upstairs. So she does.

All this time, it’s pump and reel, pump and reel and slowly I bring the fish in.

“I need you down here, Mary,” I yell again, “get the gaff!!”

The fish is getting closer, even tries a jump into the air to get off. I’m not letting you get away, I mutter to myself. Eventually the fish is close to the boat.

“Gaff him” I instruct (notice the change in my tone?). So she tries and the fish – by now I’ve identified a Mahi Mahi – takes off again and starts heading under the boat!! Oh no, you don’t, I think. I won’t let you cut my line on the props or rudders, and I bring him back to the surface at the back and work him to the side again. “Gaff him!!!” She misses.

So holding the rod in my left hand and the gaff in my right, I gaff him just behind the gills and lift him on board.

So now it’s photo and video time!! But that’s not the end of the story. Now I have to kill the Mahi Mahi.

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My first Mahi Mahi

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What a beauty

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Anchorage in Elizabeth Harbour

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Anchorage in Elizabeth Harbour

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Anchors down and set

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Ready for filliting :)

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So I club him on the head a few times with a hammer – doesn’t work, Spike him in the brain – still he lives, club and spike him a few more times and eventually he gives up the ghost.

By now the boat is drifting all over the place and the cockpit looks like a violent murder scene.

The depth sounder reads 14 feet but we should be in more than 600ft (max for my depth sounder)!! Mary, back at the helm, shouts down that the depth sounder has stopped working and is stuck on 13 feet!!! Oh, shoot!!!!!!! We need a functional depth sounder in Elizabeth Harbour!!! A few – no make that many – choice words filter through my brain as I clear the cockpit of some of the blood.

Then I’m upstairs trying to reset the depth sounder – no go with anything I try!! Does the old one still work we wonder. Anyway, as we are pondering the predicament, it suddenly starts reading numbers again – it’s working!!! Yay, but why?!?!? Of course, it stops working when it more than 600 feet!!! And I’m guessing that the 13 feet reading we got was when the fish swam under the boat Well, whatever, it performed flawlessly to our anchorage,

Followed our waypoints into Elizabeth Harbour and espied this beautiful little bay with 2 cats anchored. So I said to Mary that we should drop anchor here as it was perfect given the wind direction! So, we headed toward the beach and slowly inched our way in and dropped the hook in about 5’ of crystal clear water.

Tidied up, then sat back and had a beer before filleting my very first Mahi Mahi. So, another “when was the last time you did something for the first time” event. First time I have ever caught a fish on a trailing lure!!!

Then we had some fabulous pan fried fillets of Mahi Mahi with a few more meals in the freezer!! Nothing better than really fresh fish.

Hit the sack at about 9 and slept through until about 4 (7 hours – a luxury) with no rocking and rolling – hooray!!

If only….. Well, I caught a fish, the wind has settled, and had a great night. Now we blob for a while……..

Rolly, rolly, rolly, this anchorage!!! I’m stiing here, borrowing some bandwidth and exercising my waistline. The boat is rolling so much that one has to constantly sway to keep upright!!!! I have decided that “tranquil” anchorages in the Bahamas are few and far between and are to be absolutely cherished!!

Up early this morning and prepared to depart Staniel Cay Yacht Club Marina. This looked like it would be quite a mission. We were tucked away in the very front berth of a long dock with the dinghy dock next to us. The boat behind us seemed to be very close and I would have to reverse out – at an angle and against the falling tide with a cross wind blowing us onto the dock and potentially the other 2 boats I would have to reverse past. Then it was almost low tide with shallow areas on the other side = so no turning room.

I had mentally planned and rehearsed the manuvre and everything was going perfectly according to plan. Of course nothing ever goes to plan, does it?? Oh no, s#$t happens. The bow spring that Mary was releasing as I was reversing got stuck between the pile and dock, slewing the boat around!! Well, some kindly Samaritans (actually the owner of the boat behind us) was on hand to free the line. I guess he was worried about us smashing into him. To be fair, Mary had warned him and the boat behind him that we were leaving and they should be on hand to fend us off in case the wind blew us into him. Well, apart from that, the mentally rehearsed procedure went perfectly to plan

Had a reasonable trip to Blackpoint into 15/20 knots of wind and a 2-3′ chop. then found a great spot amongst many other boats anchored off Blackpoint. I guess a lot of boats were in to see the Superbowl on one of the big screen TVs in one of the restaurants.

We decided to have a quite afternoon although Mary has continued the tidy up – stripping the beds as we’ll be taking a lot of laundry to the laundromat tomorrow.

Have also met up with Mario of Schmetterling whom we last saw in Nassau 4 weeks ago. We have also spotted Ocanee, also last seen in Nassau. And as we were coming into the anchorage we spotted another boat sporting a NZ flag and had a quick chat on the VHF.

Now, if only the swell would settle…..

This morning, Leanne and the boys flew out of Staniel Cay on their way back home. Mary has accompanied them as far as Nassau to help with the transfers to the international flight to Charlotte and then San Francisco. There they will stay with Mary’s brother and his wife before flying on to New Zealand. It’s hardly believable that it’s been 4 weeks – to the day – since they joined us in Nassau!!

The time has flown by but, I guess that’s a function of enjoying ourselves and having a 3 1/2 and almost 2 year old on the boat. There was never a dull moment and it was always go, go, go! They have done and seen so much: visiting Atlantis Aquarium; seeing the iguanas on Allen’s Cay; swimming around the wreck of a sunken plane; conching; enjoying the various beaches; having fun in the inflatable pool in the cockpit when it was too windy to dinghy anywhere; seeing the swimming pigs at Big Majors; snorkelling in Thunderball Grotto and so much more

Our only hope is that the boys will remember some of their experiences – fortunately there are many, many photos to act as reminders. We will certainly miss them.

Today turned into quite a mission. Got up early, had breakfast and had a leisurely (15 minute) stroll to the airport and got there in plenty of time. Then the lady doing the check-in arrived in her golf cart and promptly told us and another passenger that we had to have the tickets printed!!!!! They had been purchased online so we only had the reference numbers and, of course, ID!! But no, that wasn’t good enough!!

So Leanne and I RAN (well, Leanne ran and I sort of jogged/walked/jogged) back to the boat (about 500m), dumped the PDF files onto a USB stick and then printed them off at the yacht club. The other lady and her friend only had her ticket on her smart phone so had to get onto the internet in the yacht club to retrieve her email to print her ticket. Naturally, she didn’t have internet access (you have to buy time) but I let her use my internet access. In return, they had organised a golf cart to take us back to the airport.

This all took place about 5 minutes before the plane was due to land but, true to form, it was 45 minutes late so all the running could have been avoided!!! Island style, this! Of course, Leanne had had a nice shower this morning but after all the running was hot and sweaty for her journey

Last night we indulged ourselves and had a “farewell” dinner at SC Yacht Club. And, since we haven’t been able to catch any, we splurged and each had a lobster!!! The meal was excellent and very reasonably priced Our orders had to be placed by 5pm and we turned up to the restaurant just after 7 for a drink at the bar. Then at 7.30 a bell was rung and dinner was served to all patrons who had ordered.

For $42 we had lobster chowder and a mini bread roll, green salad, 1.5 grilled lobster tails and fries (or baked potato, or parsley potatoes) and then a lemon cheesecake slice All very yummy!!

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While Mary has been away I have had to replace one of my small bilge pumps which just stopped working for no rhyme or reason. Fortunately, I was able to obtain a replacement at the Isles General Store and install it with not too much trouble. Now we’ll need to tidy up the boat – it’s like a tornado has hit it – and pack away the toys, extra bedding, cushions and table sides (Leanne has been sleeping on the convertible dinette table – so it’s been a case of setting up the bed at night and dismantling it in the morning), Then it’s onwards south to meet my sister, Estelle and her husband, Alastair, in Georgetown in about 3 weeks’ time. If only the weather would play ball and the wind stop blowing…..

2012-01-28 Compass Cay – actually Pipe Cay

So we dropped the mooring ball today and headed down to Compass Cay via the banks (inside route). It was a bit of a bumpy ride but not drastic. Inched our way toward Compass Cay via their channel markers of which a few were missing so it was a bit nerve wracking first following a range and then heading close inshore. We finally made our way into the lee of Pipe Cay and dropped the hook which held first time. The current was very strong though!!

We then dinghied into Compass Cay Marina where we had burgers for lunch and then went off to the beach which was deserted – ours were the only footprints there!! Headed back to the marina and bumped into Steve and Amanda (Diana) again!!! Then it was swimming with the nurse sharks – Leanne and Amanda egging each other on – photos to prove it!!

Then headed back to Amanzi as I wanted to be there at the turn of the tide (current) to make sure that the anchor would hold. Leanne and I dinghied around also looking for coral heads for lobster but no luck!.

However, very near where we were anchored we saw that some irresponsible boater had dumped a huge number of beer and wine bottles into the water – there was even a broken deck chair on the bottom. How sad that there are still people willing to spoil the environment like this!!!

We then watched the most glorious sunset and each one of us saw the “green flash.” This occurs as the last bit of the sun dips below the horizon. I’ve been sceptical about it but there it was!! But not what I really expected. It appeared as a green dot just as the sun dipped. It was so quick that I didn’t get it on a photo. But we all saw the same thing

2012-01-29 Pipe Cay to Staniel Cay/ Big Majors Spot – Fishing

Today the weather forecast (Chris Parker) was for light variable winds, so we decided to take the outside route (via the Exuma sound) to Staniel Cay to see if we could get any fishing in. We gingerly threaded our way between the various shallow banks past the non-existent channel markers and entered the sound at Conch Cut. As soon as we were out of the park area, I let out the lure hoping to catch a Mahi Mahi or a Wahoo or something. I mean everybody catches so much fish that they get sick of eating fish and are always hanging out for a burger when they get to any kind of restaurant.

Well, two things happened. Firstly, the light variable winds turned into a south-easterly at 15-20 knots!! Seems to me the Bahamas weather forecast and my simple GRIB files are consistently more accurate that Chris Parker’s 6.30am forecasts!!! So the result is that the sea state was somewhat rougher than expected. Fortunately, the swell was on our port bow so our motion wasn’t too bad.

The second thing that happened that we did not catch any fish – not even a nibble

We even went past Big Rock Cut ( our entrance to Staniel Cay from the Sound) to try to get in some more time fishing. The wind started freshening and the swell was kicking up a bit more so we turned around and headed back to the cut. Looking at our track on SPOT, it would seem we missed the entrance but this was not so

So we slowly motored our way down the channel – passing a rock awash, clearly marked on the chart. But the gap seemed so small between it ans the island, even though I had plotted the course!! What to do, what to do? I’m not sure!!! Drifted to the western side of the rock, even if course said eastern! And being more to the right, the gap on the left seemed even smaller!! Oh dear!!! (‘dear’ is a euphemism ) Looked at the chart again – current also carrying us forward. Ok there’s enough room on the right to squeeze past. Looking back the gap on the left was actually huge Motored on past Staniel Cay Yacht Club and around Big Majors and tucked ourselves into a nice little spot off the beach and in front of all the other boats anchored around.

Then it was off to see the swimming pigs while Mary stayed aboard and baked some more bread – yummy stuff!! Back to the boat via some beach time for the boys although they were not in their swimming togs!! This little beach in front of us seems to be the “social beach” with chairs and a large bonfire pit.

After lunch Leanne and I dinghied around looking for various spots for lobster and Leanne dived a few but there was nothing to see anywhere. Back at the boat, it was so hot that Mary had put up the cockpit shades and filled the little inflatable paddling pool for the boys which they thoroughly enjoyed.

At sunset we looked out for the green flash again but there were clouds on the horizon.

Slept well in the lee of Big Majors

2012-01-30 Big Majors Spot.

Today the winds were pretty heavy but Leanne and I  dinghied into town – getting quite wet from the spray on the way – to replenish some of our depleted stores. Went to the Blue and then the Pink Store and were quite successful in getting some good provisions. We had also taken 2 garbage bags which we were able to dispose of Then filled up the dinghy fuel tank and dinghied along a dinghy channel to the Isles general Store. On the way we  met Steve and Amanda dinghying there too! So we had a nice little natter while motoring side by side. Got some more provisions at the store and then headed back to the boat. We had bought so much stuff that the extra weight prevented me from being able to get Amadink on the plane, so it was a slowish but pleasant trip back – not so wet!

This afternoon, we took off to see the swimming pigs but all we saw was all of them disappearing into the bush. So, we headed off to a very deserted beach and while there Steve and Amanda arrived. She wrote a happy birthday message to her mum in the sand and then photo’d it to send – nice!! They then returned to Amanzi for drinks and dinner and a very enjoyable evening. They had brought along some dark rum which we all enjoyed thoroughly and Amanda had baked a fresh loaf of bread which she shared – yummy again. We now have that recipe from her too

The wind picked up during the evening but we all slept well – NOT a function of the rum, mind you

2012-01-31 Big Majors Spot

Weather, weather, weather! Our lives are ruled by the weather. Forecast today to 15-20 knot easterly winds. Not too much of a problem for us, tucked into the lee of Big Majors. Mary decided we should go into Staniel Cay so off we went packing another huge garbage bag – good grief, where does it all come from – plus the stroller for the boys.

Stopped at the beach to see the swimming pigs. They obviously hadn’t had any food so we had 3 come out to Amadink for some lettuce and stuff we had brought along. There were also 2 little piglets – still suckling – but they didn’t venture into the water. It’s an amazing experience to see these pigs swim out to the dinghy looking for food. Also around were a few barracudas and some other smallish fish.

After that we continued to Staniel Cay but as we rounded the headland we found the chop quite heavy and everyone was almost soaked by the time we decided to turn back after five minutes Not the best decision to try to cross to Staniel Cay given the wind speed and direction.

So… back to Amanzi for swimming togs and off the beach for the rest of the morning. It was absolutely perfect and very calm being protected by the land mass of Big Majors. It was very hot out of the wind so it was back to the boat for lunch and afternoon rest/nap/quiet time.

Still hanging out for those lobster but it appears (from local knowledge) that one will only find them in deeper water in the cuts and Sound side of the islands However, Steve of Diana has also had no success diving for these wretched beasts in the cut – so, who knows?????

2012-02-01 Thunderball Grotto

The weather still plagues us. Winds are still forecast for 15-20 knot range building to 20-25 knots  Where are these Bahamian days that you read about in various blogs? You know, idyllic days of sunshine and fun??

This morning Leanne and I headed off to Thunderball Grotto while Mary elected to stay behind and look after the boys. On our side of the island it was quite peaceful and calm and we got Amadink up on the plane quite easily. Once again, going round the headland we hit the swells and it was a very wet and bouncy ride to the grotto. Good thing we already had our wetsuits on There was no-one else there and we made our way in though the cave entrance. It was low tide so we easily entered the grotto. We didn’t even need to swim underwater to get in.

The grotto was amazing with the fish life in abundance. We had taken some old bread in plastic bags which we released slowly and the fish literally “swarmed” around us. I held some bread crust in my hand and got my finger “nipped” by some little nipper of a fish – not painful at all! We spent about 30 minutes there all alone and had a great time.

Then it was off to some coral heads and an inspection of the cuts to the Exuma sound for lobster. Sadly, despite an intensive search we found no lobster at all. We did see many Nassau groupers of all sizes – sadly, we couldn’t take any as they are out of season!!

After returning to Amanzi it was lunch time and nap time although I spent some time in the water cleaning the hull of all the growth she had accumulated since Baltimore, but especially since Fernandina Beach!

Later it was off to our “private” little beach and then back to Amanzi for showers and dinner. Another great sunset was seen but no green flash this time

Tomorrow we are relocating around Big Majors to Staniel Cay Marina as the winds are expected to increase over the next few days and we need to get Leanne, Mary, the boys and their luggage to the airport in a dry state

PLUS we’ll have some internet access – YAY

2012-02-02 Staniel Cay Marina via Thunderball Grotto

Upanchored early this morning and headed around Big Majors Spot and picked up a mooring ball at Thunderball Grotto and then dinghied to the grotto for some more snorkelling. Once again it was amazing and Mary and Luther also enjoyed the experience! By the time we had finished it was almost lunch time so we headed off to the Marina, refuelled with diesel and then entered our slip where we’ll be staying till Leanne and the boys leave on Saturday.

Treated ourselves to lunch at the Marina restaurant and had very reasonably priced meals.

After lunch we headed into town with the boys in the stroller. First went to the BaTelCo office to see if we could sort out Mary and Leanne’s cell phones with their Bahamas Sim cards. Both are unable to text or phone internationally! Well, the lady was unable to sort out the problem so the purchase of the Sim cards has really been a total waste of time apart from being able to text/phone locally and the USA.

Then went via the small airport to the Isles General Store and picked up some provisions – including a case of diet Pepsi. Thank goodness for the stroller to carry the case back to the boat

Whiling away the late afternoon a sportfisher boat came in and the crew started cleaning the fish they had caught – 51 on them including a large wahoo and many yellow eyes! Naturally we were green with envy. But, they had been fishing in the  Tongue of the Ocean which is about 20 nautical miles from here!!!

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Well the weather is good so we are heading further south to Compass Cay today. There is some heavt weather on it’s way on Monday night through Wednesday/Thursday and we want to get down to Staniel Cay as Leanne and the boys fly out next Saturday

Yesterday was a relaxing day and amazingly some old friends, Arthur and Mamiko, whom we last saw in the US, noticed our boat – they saw the blue flybridge when they were visiting Boo Boo Hill!!! – and they dinghied round to see us. They are moored in the Emerald Rock part of Warderick Wells. So we agreed to meet them later for some snorkelling and then they came round for a decent shower – love that watermaker!! – and dinner which Mary whipped up for us. They left after 9 and dinghied back to their boat by moonlight!

So, probably no internet till late next week some time but hang in there guys…….